The Next Big Thing (to bitch about)

Because the world needs another Korean taco truck

It’s always fun to rant about the latest food crazes. A decade ago there was welcome backlash against stuffed crust pizza, Asian fusion and the Atkins diet. Today journalist, Jacquelynn D. Powers, railed against the newest trends and she makes some good points:

• Food trucks – Here’s she’s spot on. A truck is an easy way to break into the food service business and it’s supposed to be cheap for us gourmands. But when you’ve got places like the Border Grill truck selling tacos for three bucks a pop and Mandoline Grill selling six dollar banh mi, I’m out. I can go down the street and get better tacos and banh mi for $1.25 and $3.55, respectively. Plus I can sit down at a table like a dignified human being and have access to indoor plumbing.
• Bacon – Do I want bacon ice cream or bacon martinis? Not really. Would I be happy eating bacon every day? Absolutely.
• Truffle oil – I love truffle oil. It’s such a distinctive and earthy flavor that can add amazing dimension to dishes. But chefs these days go way overboard, sprinkling it on fries and mac & cheese, just to inject some exoticism. Lazy. Ironically, almost all truffle oils are made synthetically.
• Cupcakes – I don’t know what the big deal here is. Cupcakes are tasty and easy to serve.  Just don't give me one with bacon in it.
• Farm to table backlash – Powers seems to be upset that restaurants are co-opting the phrase without delivering the goods. I don’t know if this so much a food trend as everyday food marketing strategy. Just like food labeled “all-natural” doesn’t mean anything, “sustainable” and “farm-to-table” doesn’t mean anything.
• Sliders – I’m indifferent about tiny burgers. If it means I can have more variety on the plate and they’re made well, then sure. Why not?

A real food truck

But while it’s easy to bash culinary fads, they exist for a reason. I have fond memories of eating tacos in the wee hours on the streets of Highland Park. I made a lackluster squash soup that came to life when I drizzled in a bit of truffle oil. Good food is good food.


The "It" chef

I’m sure it’s only a matter of days before we see David Chang-inspired food on every menu. I’m sure it’ll become tiresome, but that won’t change the fact that David Chang is an awesome, innovative chef.  But I am curious: What current eating trends do you find especially annoying?